Reviving Tradition: Georgia’s Endemic Wheat Varieties Inspire Demand for Nutritious, High-Quality Bread

Reviving Tradition: Georgia’s Endemic Wheat Varieties Inspire Demand for Nutritious, High-Quality Bread

Every day, a variety of breads fill shelves, but the primary question remains: is the bread offered truly nutritious and high-quality in a country where bread-baking has deep historical roots? In Georgia, wheat and wine have long been central to daily life, with rich traditions and rituals surrounding bread and wheat cultivation. Traditionally, bread was baked in a tone (a traditional Georgian clay oven) or stone oven and stored in bread chests to keep it fresh for days. However, during the Soviet era, farmers largely abandoned the production of endemic wheat varieties, leading to a scarcity of local wheat in today’s markets. Bread remains an integral part of Georgian life and language, with numerous expressions like “puri” (bread), “puroba” (feast), and “puradi” (generous). Bread also features prominently in Georgian hospitality rituals, such as the well-known “pur-marili.”

Since the pandemic, interest in Georgia’s unique wheat varieties has surged, leading farmers to reintroduce endemic grains into their fields and revive traditional bread-making. Consumer interest has grown as well, particularly for heritage varieties like “Akhaltsikhe Tsiteli Doli,” which evoke nostalgic memories of freshly baked bread.

To support the preservation, reintroduction, and broader popularity of these heritage grains, RECC is implementing a GEF-funded project titled “Sustainable Management of Agricultural Biodiversity in Vulnerable Ecosystems and Rural Communities of the Samtskhe-Javakheti Region in Georgia.” This project includes field visits to monitor specially designated plots in four municipalities of the Samtskhe-Javakheti region—Ninotsminda, Akhaltsikhe, Akhalkalaki, and Aspindza—where farmers are cultivating endemic wheat varieties like “Akhaltsikhe Tsiteli Doli,” “Dika,” and “Shavpkha.” In 2023, around 80 hectares of agricultural land were sown with these varieties, expanding to 225 hectares in 2024 with new farmers joining the initiative. A distinctive feature of this project is the commitment to donate harvested seeds free of charge to those interested in cultivating Meskhetian wheat varieties, with 36,135 tons of certified seed distributed this year alone, reflecting the growing interest in reviving these grains.

The importance of preserving these varieties is comprehensive, encompassing environmental sustainability, food security, economic resilience, and cultural preservation. During field visits, farmers and community members received consultations on soil preparation, winter soil treatments, plant care, and yield improvement. Each farmer received 250 kg of seed per hectare. In partnership with the LEPL Scientific-Research Center of Agriculture under Georgia’s Ministry of Environmental Protection and Agriculture, the project provides soil analysis and tailored recommendations for soil nutrition and plant care.

With the support of the Global Environment Facility (GEF), the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the Ministry of Environmental Protection and Agriculture of Georgia, and the Regional Environmental Centre for the Caucasus (RECC), these efforts aim to restore and widely distribute endangered Meskhetian wheat varieties, safeguarding both the biodiversity and cultural heritage of the Samtskhe-Javakheti region.

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